By David Lottmann
With 20+ styles of rock climbing shoes to choose from, it can be a daunting task to select a shoe that fits and will perform the way you want it to. To help you choose a climbing shoe, here is expert advice from David Lottmann, a Climbing Guide for the EMS Climbing School
What type of climbing are you getting into ?.
Sport, Bouldering, Trad, Alpine? Face, Crack, Slab? The many different types of rock climbing out there require different properties in shoes. Start out by figuring out what type climbing you will focus on in the next couple of years. If this is your first pair of shoes look for an "all-a-rounder" that is snug but comfortable enough to keep on for a few hours at a time. Sport/Gym Climbers and Boulderers often wear a tighter shoe that they can pull off quickly between climbs, where as Traditional and Alpine Climbers need a pair of shoes they can wear all day in comfort. Stiffer shoes edge better, while softer shoes may be more sensitive on slabs. For starting out, before you develop more toe strength, it may be a good idea to look for a stiffer, more supportive shoe.
What climbing shoe size/fit should you get?
It is a common mistake for first timers to buy shoes that are way too tight. Old-school wisdom and advice was to cram your little piggies into the smallest pair you could fit in an effort to help you climb better. The truth is, when starting out you have so much to learn in technique, it doesn't really benefit you to be in a painful shoe. I learned this lesson from watching a climbing partner climb everything 5.8 and under in his approach shoes. Wearing painful shoes might actually hurt your climbing performance, as it can be hard to see those little foot holds through teary eyes. Save the radically cambered shoes for when you have developed the technique to throw down on 5.11 and V3+. When trying shoes on lace them snugly, then stand in them. Your toes should hit the front, but not be curled. A well-fitting climbing shoe may feel a little too snug on the sides, but that is just because your feet are not used to wearing something designed to be so snug. You want to be able to feel the rock through your shoes, but if they are so tight that they cut off circulation you won't feel a thing. Most climbers do not wear socks in their climbing shoes, but if you have a pair that has stretched out over time you may start wearing a thin sock and find them to be great for colder weather climbing.
Leather (lined or unlined), Synthetic...what's the difference?
After picking a shoe based on the above suggestions, it is very important to note the material that it is made of so you select the right size. Unlined leather shoes will stretch up to a full size after a couple dozen pitches. Lined shoes will only stretch about 1/3 a size, while synthetic shoes do not stretch at all. It is imperative that you try the shoes on. (Street shoe size and climbing shoe size are almost impossible to compare.) If you are unsure of size consider ordering 2-3 pairs, and returning the ones that don't fit.
Do some research
Look around at your local crag and gym. Ask climbing partners what they are wearing and why. Search for reviews (many of the shoes we carry have customer reviews right on our website). Many of the reviews mention how they fit.
Care for your climbing shoes
The super sticky rubber on modern day shoes is also very soft, so try not to wear them out by walking around in them too much. I wear comfy approach shoes right up to the climb, and carry my shoes to the top of the cliff if I plan on walking off. Give the sole a quick brush with your hand before to climb to make sure there is no sand or pine-needles stuck to the bottom, and lightly scrub the sole with a wire brush if it is really dirty. Most importantly, air those puppies out after every climbing day by loosening the laces all the way and folding back the tongue.
Climbing shoes also have a habit of picking up a rather pungent odor, as many of my climbing partners can attest. If they are soaked from sweat or rain, stuff them with crumpled newspaper overnight and then air dry them the 2nd day. After a couple a seasons of climbing you may be able to have the shoes re-soled, which can breathe new life into them and tends to bring em' down a half size or so.
