There is universal agreement that the one item of gear having the most impact on rock climbing performance is footwear. This article will help you how to choose the best shoes for yourself.
Rock climbing was originally practice for mountaineering, and early climbers would slip and slide up the rock in stiff, unresponsive mountain or hiking boots. Through trial and error, climbers finally figured out that the softer rubber soles of basketball shoes worked much better, though their extreme flexibility caused problems on steep face climbs. The first shoes designed specifically for rock climbing incorporated smooth rubber soles for high friction, a stiff forefoot for secure stances on small rock edges, and lightweight materials to save weight. The specialized rock-shoe design came into its own in the 1980s with the development of a special rubber for the soles and rands (the sides of the shoes). This "sticky" rubber enabled climbers to stand on tiny, rounded crystals as well as wafer-thin edges.
Just over a decade ago, there were perhaps two or three brands of rock shoe from which to choose. Today, there are all-round styles that perform well on all types of rock and terrain as well as exotic specialty shoes designed for very specific types of climbing. A magazine recently reviewed over 40 different rock shoe models that ranged in price from around $90 to over $140. Because virtually all modern rock shoes have sticky rubber soles, the most important considerations when making a choice are fit and the balance between stiffness and flexibility.
Although you can get rock shoes through outdoor equipment mail-order companies, it is best to actually try on various models. Stores that carry rock-climbing gear, and indoor climbing gyms in particular, often rent shoes that you can try out. Watch for "demo" festivals where several companies provide shoes for you to test.
Wearing rock shoes is often described as the "agony of de feet." Contemporary shoe designs have eliminated pain and foot injury as the price you pay for a shoe that performs well. Still, you want to ensure that your foot will not slip or rotate inside of the shoe and that there are no air pockets, particularly in the forefoot area, that can collapse and bend when you transfer your weight to the foot. Thus, a snug fit remains essential.
Generally, you will wear a size or two smaller than your street shoes. The actual fit for a given size varies considerably among shoe manufacturers, and even among styles offered by the same supplier. Again, it is very important for you to try several sizes and models for the best fit. Some climbers wear a lightweight liner sock, but most wear their shoes over bare feet to ensure a sensitive feel for the rock texture. Whatever your preference, the shoe must fit.
You can expect all rock shoes to stretch a bit. Lined shoes will stretch less and feel tight longer; however, they may offer less sensitivity on subtle rock textures. Unlined shoes will shape to your foot and initially provide comfortable, precise performance, but may stretch several sizes with use. Newer, unlined models use special stitching patterns to lessen stretch without sacrificing flexibility.
The right balance of stiffness and flexibility largely depends on the type of rock and terrain over which you will be climbing. A stiffer shoe performs well in continuous cracks and on steep face climbs that require edging the soles on small, sharp features. Once these shoes are set and weighted on small rock edges, the stiff sole provides a virtual ledge to stand on. On the other hand, very stiff shoes offer little advantage on lower angled friction climbs where maximizing the contact area between rubber and rock is important.
When contact area and the ability to "grab" holds is critical, a flexible shoe will provide superior performance. Many of the very difficult modern sport climbs, and indoor climbing walls in particular, require a flexible shoe that allows you to feel and adjust to subtle features in the surface.
A rock shoe should have a fair amount of rubber extending around the toe and along the rands of the shoe. Sticky rubber rands are essential for crack climbing where the shoe will be wedged or "jammed" in the crack during moves.
So, the climber who wants to enjoy the steep cracks of Yosemite, the smooth friction of Stone Mountain, and the sharp, crystal edges of the Rushmore Needles by using a single pair of rock shoes might consider a moderately stiff all-round model for that initial purchase.
by Kevin Keene
